Related Sites

Herbal Medicine from your Garden

Interesting guide to essential oils





Tell a Friend about Us




Herb garden

Vegetable garden

Useful Contacts

Forum

Sitemap

Articles about Vegetable Crops for the Garden

  Advantages of Container Vegetable Gardens
  Best Vegetable Crops for Containers
  Brandywine Tomatoes - Get the Most From This Heirloom Variety
  Choosing a Site For Your Home Vegetable Garden
  Container Vegetable Gardening Tips
  Container Vegetable Gardens
  Double Your Crops
  Getting Children Interested in Growing Vegetables
  Grow Your Own Salad
  Growing Tomatoes in Pots
  Growing Vegetable Plants Becomes More Than Just A Hobby
  How to Grow a Vegetable Garden
  Indoor Container Vegetable Gardening Ideas
  Indoor Vegetable Gardening How to Tips
  Learning About Indoor Container Vegetable Gardening
  List of vegetable crops by difficulty
  Mushroom Growing in Odd Unused Spaces
  Non Hybrid Seeds For Survival Gardening
  Organic Container Gardening - Simple and Easy Ways to Grow Vegetables and Flowers in Pots
  Organic Vegetable Cultivation Table
  Over Wintering Chilli Pepper Plants
  pH preferences of food crops
  Planning your Container Crops
  Planting Tomatoes Upside Down
  Potato Container Garden Tips
  Preparing a Vegetable Garden
  Review: Food4Wealth by Jonathan White
  Vegetable Container Garden Tips
  Vegetable Crops in alphabetical order by name
  Why I Recommend Vegetable Container Gardening
  Why Vegetable Container Gardening is Getting More Popular Today Than Ever
  How to grow organic Asparagus
  How to grow organic Aubergines
  How to grow organic Beetroot
  How to grow organic Broad beans
  How to grow organic Broccoli
  How to grow organic Brussels sprouts
  How to grow organic Cabbage
  How to grow organic Calabrese
  How to grow organic Carrot
  How to grow organic Cauliflower
  How to grow organic Celeriac
  How to grow organic Celery
  How to grow organic Celtuce
  How to grow organic Chinese broccoli
  How to grow organic Chinese cabbage
  How to grow organic Chicory
  How to grow organic Corn
  How to grow organic Cucumbers and Gherkins
  How to grow organic Endive
  How to grow organic Florence fennel
  How to grow organic French beans
  How to grow organic Garlic
  How to grow organic Globe artichokes
  How to grow organic Jerusalem artichokes
  How to grow organic Kale and borecole
  How to grow organic Kohl rabi
  How to grow organic Komatsuna
  How to grow organic Land cress
  How to grow organic Leaf beet
  How to grow organic Leeks
  How to grow organic Lettuce
  How to grow organic Mizuna
  How to grow organic Mustard greens
  How to grow organic New Zealand spinach
  How to grow organic Onions
  How to grow organic Parsnips and Hamburg Parsley
  How to grow organic Peas
  How to grow organic Peppers (hot and sweet)
  How to grow organic Potatoes
  How to grow organic Radishes
  How to grow organic Rocket
  How to grow organic Runner beans
  How to grow organic Salad onions
  How to grow organic Salsify, Scorzonera and Scolymus
  How to grow organic Seakale
  How to grow organic Shallots
  How to grow organic Spinach
  How to grow organic Squash
  How to grow organic Swede
  How to grow organic Texsel greens
  How to grow organic Tomatoes
  How to grow organic Turnips




About us

Links page

Add URL

Privacy

Disclaimer

Web Design by TheWebsiteDesign.co.uk

Labelled with ICRA

DISCLOSURE:

We support this site using affiliate marketing as a way to earn revenue. All the ads, and many of the links mentioning other products, services, or websites are special links that earn us a commission when you use or pay for their product/service.

Please do not use our site if this alarms you.

Organic Gardening:


How to grow organic Shallots


by

Shallots
Greengrocers (and most cooks) call shallots 'onions'

Shallots

Allium esculentum or A. cepa Aggregatum group

Family: Liliaceae (Group 6)

Unless you are a gardener, shallots are more commonly known as onions. Used in the same way, and having the same taste, shallots are onions which grow in clumps. Of the many varieties of shallot available, only a few are commonly grown in Britain, which include yellow and red-skinned onion-shaped forms and one pear-shaped cultivar, 'Hative de Niort', grown mainly for exhibition. Many of the yellow skinned varieties are exceptionally good for storage. The gardener's onion is dealt with on a separate page.

Recommended cultivars

Sante
Topper
Pikant
Delicato
Dutch Red
Long Keeping Red
Long-Keeping Yellow

Site/soil

Shallots require good, free draining soil with a high organic content. If you are growing from seed, you need to prepare an onion bed, basically similar to a seedbed in that the soil must be very fine in texture, but with much higher organic content. The soil should be dug over in early winter, incorporating plenty of manure or compost. Leave the ground rough so that the soil will be broken up by the frost. In spring, add lime if necessary and rake the soil flat, firming well, but make sure the ground is not compacted. Leave undisturbed for at least 10 days to become 'stale': onion flies are attracted by freshly disturbed soil, but will not lay eggs unless there are onions for their larvae to feed on.

Cultivation

Shallots may be raised from seed, which is treated like onion seed, but are more commonly grown from sets (single shallots), each of which multiplies into a clump. Where possible buy stock which is guaranteed virus-free, and only save home grown shallots for planting if they are very healthy. Choose sets about 2cm (¾") in diameter and with a weight of about 10g. This size of set will produce a clump of reasonable sized bulbs.

Plant sets as early as possible from December to March, depending on locality. Remove loose skin and plant 15cm by 20cm (6"x8") or 18cm each way (7"x7"), pushing each set into the ground so that the tips protrude. Protect from birds, who like to pull them out of the ground. Small sets may also be planted 2.5cm each way (1"x1") for use as spring onions.

Water after planting in dry weather until established. Keep well weeded.

Harvest

A few leaves may be used during the growing season. The crop proper will be ready in July or August when the tops have died down. Lift the bulbs and leave them on the surface in the sun for a few days, turning them over occasionally to dry. In bad weather, they can be dried on mats stretched across a frame indoors, in single layers. After 7-21 days, inspect the bulbs, removing all soft bulbs, those with thickened necks, spots or damage for immediate use. Store in strings, net bags or on wire trays.

Pests and diseases

The most serious pest is onion fly, particularly on dry soils, but it is more likely on shallots grown from seed. The fly is attracted to freshly disturbed soil to lay its eggs. It can be deterred by sowing in a stale seed bed: i.e. A seedbed prepared 10 days in advance of sowing. This is particularly important for August sowings. Crops can also be grown under fine nets.

Stem and bulb eelworm can also be serious on infected soils. The best way to deal with this pest is rotation, growing brassicas or lettuces for two or three years. Keep the ground weed-free, as some common weeds harbour these pests.



If you're interested in healthy food, you may also be interested in our sister site, The Health Site, Your Online Health Channel.


Article ©2004 Frann Leach. All rights reserved.

Top of page