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Brandywine Tomatoes - Get the Most From This Heirloom Variety
Choosing a Site For Your Home Vegetable Garden
Container Vegetable Gardening Tips
Container Vegetable Gardens
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Growing Tomatoes in Pots
Growing Vegetable Plants Becomes More Than Just A Hobby
How to Grow a Vegetable Garden
Indoor Container Vegetable Gardening Ideas
Indoor Vegetable Gardening How to Tips
Learning About Indoor Container Vegetable Gardening
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Planning your Container Crops
Planting Tomatoes Upside Down
Potato Container Garden Tips
Preparing a Vegetable Garden
Review: Food4Wealth by Jonathan White
Vegetable Container Garden Tips
Vegetable Crops in alphabetical order by name
Why I Recommend Vegetable Container Gardening
Why Vegetable Container Gardening is Getting More Popular Today Than Ever
How to grow organic Asparagus
How to grow organic Aubergines
How to grow organic Beetroot
How to grow organic Broad beans
How to grow organic Broccoli
How to grow organic Brussels sprouts
How to grow organic Cabbage
How to grow organic Calabrese
How to grow organic Carrot
How to grow organic Cauliflower
How to grow organic Celeriac
How to grow organic Celery
How to grow organic Celtuce
How to grow organic Chinese broccoli
How to grow organic Chinese cabbage
How to grow organic Chicory
How to grow organic Corn
How to grow organic Cucumbers and Gherkins
How to grow organic Endive
How to grow organic Florence fennel
How to grow organic French beans
How to grow organic Garlic
How to grow organic Globe artichokes
How to grow organic Jerusalem artichokes
How to grow organic Kale and borecole
How to grow organic Kohl rabi
How to grow organic Komatsuna
How to grow organic Land cress
How to grow organic Leaf beet
How to grow organic Leeks
How to grow organic Lettuce
How to grow organic Mizuna
How to grow organic Mustard greens
How to grow organic New Zealand spinach
How to grow organic Onions
How to grow organic Parsnips and Hamburg Parsley
How to grow organic Peas
How to grow organic Peppers (hot and sweet)
How to grow organic Potatoes
How to grow organic Radishes
How to grow organic Rocket
How to grow organic Runner beans
How to grow organic Salad onions
How to grow organic Salsify, Scorzonera and Scolymus
How to grow organic Seakale
How to grow organic Shallots
How to grow organic Spinach
How to grow organic Squash
How to grow organic Swede
How to grow organic Texsel greens
How to grow organic Tomatoes
How to grow organic Turnips
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How to grow organic Carrot
by Frann Leach
Get that real carrot taste with no added sugar!
Family: Umbelliferae (Group 3)
Home grown carrots, especially organically grown, are so much tastier than shop bought ones it's hard to tell they are the same animal. You can grow them on any reasonably workable soil, though they like deep, fertile sandy soil best. If you have stony or heavy soil you need to prepare it first.
Carrots come in three main varieties: short, intermediate and long-rooted. There are also Chantenay types (I guess you would call them medium-length), and new round cultivars, useful for containers and very shallow soil. Nearly all carrots nowadays are orange, although there is a recent cultivar of mixed colours, and in fact the original carrots were cream or purple, I believe.
The short-rooted and round carrots are used for early and late crops, intermediate for maincrop, Chantenay for both, and long-rooted almost exclusively for exhibition.
|For early/late sowings: Amsterdam, Nantes, Nairobi, Newmarket, Rondo, Early French Frame, Lisa, Parmex
|For maincrop: Bangor, Berlicum, Autumn King, Vita Longa, Chantenay Redcore
Carrots prefer sandy soil which is deep and fertile, but any reasonably workable soil is fine. Stony soil or heavy soil is not suitable for maincrop carrots unless it has been specially prepared. Do not grow carrots on land which has been manured in the previous year, or they will be fanged. Ideal pH is 6.5-7.5.
|On a day when the soil is not too wet, dig it over with a fork and take out all the weeds, grass and any stones you come across. Break up the lumps of soil and try and get what gardeners call a good tilth, which is when it's broken up into crumbs of roughly even size. If the soil is poor, sprinkle on a handful of blood, fish and bone (wear gloves) per square yard/metre and mix it evenly into the soil. Rake the soil flat, then put the straight edge across the bed from one long side to the other near one end of the bed and draw out a seed drill about 12-15mm deep. Unless the soil is already wet, fill the drill with water and let it drain away before sowing.|
Sow the seed very finely. Carrot seed is quite reliable, so if you sow too many, you will have lots of thinning to do later. Final spacing for early carrots is 10cmx15cm (4"x6"), and for maincrops 4-5cmx15cm (1½-2"x6"). Seeds may be mixed with sand or (dry) tea leaves to aid even distribution. Cover seed and firm soil. Don't water, as this will encourage annual weeds. Put up your carrot fly fence.
Keep an eye on the carrot patch until you start to see the rows of carrot leaves coming up. There will be weeds as well, but once there are a few carrots growing, you will be able to tell the weeds easily, as carrot leaves are very distinctive and the carrots will be in straight lines. Pull up all the weeds or nip them off at ground level, particularly the ones closest to the rows, taking care not to disturb your baby carrots. Firm the soil down after weeding and give the carrots their first half-strength seaweed fertiliser mixture.
You will need to check, weed and feed the carrot bed twice a week until harvest. After a week or two, you will find the carrots are a bit crowded and you need to start thinning. Take great care when thinning to avoid attracting carrot fly. You can eat the thinnings. It's safest to leave the fly fence up while you are doing your thinning and weeding, but if you find it too difficult to work leaning over a fence, then put it back as soon as you have finished.
|end May-early June||October (under fleece)||Short-rooted|
|June and July||Feb-March (fleece or cloche)||Short-rooted or Round|
|August and Sept||March-early April||Short-rooted, Round, Chantenay|
|Oct and Nov (maincrop)||late April and May||Intermediate-rooted|
|December on||May||Intermediate or Chantenay|
In dry weather water every 2-3 weeks at 15-20 litres (3-4 gallons) per square yard/metre. If you let the soil dry out completely, the carrots will split when the water levels go up again. Don't overdo it, though. Overwatering results in excessive leaves, rather than roots.
Carrots may be lifted as required. If you're unused to organic produce, be prepared for a new taste sensation! For winter use, carrots may be left in the ground or lifted and stored. Precautions against slugs are advisable. In cold areas, ridge over with soil. Roots for storage can be lifted from October to December. Cut tops 1cm (½") from crown and store in clamps or boxes of moist sand. Any roots with damage from carrot fly, or diseased or twisted, should be used immediately. Stored carrots should be checked over periodically; any that are rotting should be removed or it will spread to the whole crop.
Pests and diseases
Carrot fly is far and away the most serious pest (and the one that caused the problem I described on the home page when farmers went nuts with the pesticides). The best control methods do not involve the use of any pesticide at all.
Measures to avoid carrot fly
|In order of importance. It's best to use as many of these as you can.|
|Never leave infested roots on the ground, in sheds or on compost heaps, or you will be encouraging the carrot fly to breed. Put them in a paper or plastic bag inside a sealed dustbin, or burn them.
|The most effective protection is a 60cm (2') high fence, buried 5cm (2") into the soil all round the carrot bed, and covered in a material that a (tiny) carrot fly cannot get through, such as clear polythene, garden fleece or very fine net (old plain net curtains are fine; lacey ones are not). The carrot fly skims along very low to the ground. If it finds a barrier taller than about 45cm (18") it changes direction. If it cannot reach your carrots, it cannot lay its eggs, and your carrots will be free from its attentions!
|4.||Foliar feed with half-strength seaweed fertiliser|
|5.||Time your sowing|
|In the South, make early sowings in mid-March, late sowings in June
In the North, add ten days to these timings.
|Lift early carrots by early September and maincrop roots by October to cut short the carrot fly cycle and lessen next year's attacks. This will also help reduce attack by the keel slug.
|Traditionally, onions and carrots grown together protect each other from carrot and onion fly by masking each other's scent. However, research indicates that it takes 4 rows of onions to every 1 row of carrots to confer protection.
Other ideas for intercrops include annual flowers (French marigolds, Tagetes patula, have a strong smell which is avoided by many insects), and aromatic plants like sage or thyme. See also companions and antagonists.
|If after all this, you are still having trouble, you could try some of the resistant varieties, such as Sytan and Flyaway. However, please remember these are not advertised as carrot fly-proof, only carrot fly-resistant! It will still be wise to use some of the other methods described here. Also remember, they have been bred for their resistance, so little things like taste may have suffered.
|And if you think this lot is a bit excessive, don't you believe it. In the case of carrot fly, the only defence is All Out War!