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Organic Gardening:


Crop rotation


by Djimi Loy



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If you want to be a successful organic grower, you need to use rotation as one of your tools to keep the ground fertile and free of pests. Here are two suggested rotations, one based on a three-year rotation (really the absolute minimum), and the other one four years.

A rotation for no-digging

3 Year Rotation
(no gross feeders)

Year 1 Year 2 Year 3
A C B
B A C
C B A
 

4 Year Rotation

Year 1 Year 2 Year 3 Year 4
A C D B
B A C D
C D B A
D B A C

Site A: Alliums (Liliaceae - Group 6) and roots (except swede, turnips, radishes) including celery and celeriac (Umbelliferae - Group 3), plus lettuce (Compositae - Group 4), chard, spinach (Chenopodiaceae - Group 1), sorrel and purslane (Group 9). Compost feed for alliums in early spring, but no lime.

Site B: Brassicas (Cruciferae - Group 2) including spring greens, radishes, turnip, swede. Heavy compost in autumn or spring. Lime 2 weeks later, if necessary. Follow winter greens by green manure.

Site C: Peas, beans (Leguminosae - Group 7) and sweetcorn (Gramineae - Group 9). Light compost in autumn or spring. Follow with brassicas (Cruciferae - Group 2).

Site D: Gross feeders: potatoes, tomatoes, squash (Solanacae - Group 8 and Cucurbitaceae - Group 5). In heavy rainfall areas add rock phosphate and rock potash. In all areas add manure in autumn or spring, and seaweed solution in summer. Early potatoes are followed by leeks.



If you're interested in healthy food, you may also be interested in our sister site, The Health Site, Your Online Health Channel.


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